Armida’s soon became a weekly ritual.
There were Mary’s fabulous handmade ravioli, Al in the kitchen and Gloria running the restaurant. And sitting in one corner was their mother, presiding over everything like Madame Defarge waiting for the guillotine to fall. There was never much doubt about who was really in charge.
One of the highlights was Armida’s Chicken Parmesan.
This was not ordinary chicken Parm. Instead of being buried under tomato sauce, the chicken came with a delicate white sauce, lightly seasoned with fresh nutmeg. It was served with linguine and broccoli, and even the broccoli was memorable. It was cooked with chicken broth and garlic, which became its sauce.
I’ve eaten an awful lot of chicken Parmesan since then, but I’ve never forgotten Armida’s version. The combination sounds almost too simple to be distinctive: crisp chicken, Parmesan, a light cream sauce, a little nutmeg, pasta and garlicky broccoli. But that was exactly the point. Nothing was overdone, and every part of the plate belonged there.
This is still one of my favorite meals. One personal tip: I actually prefer fontina cheese on the chicken. Although provolone has a tangy, more traditional taste, fontina seems to melt better and has a slightly sweeter, nuttier flavor.