The Pasta That Fought Back (Continued)

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Food · Local · Food Culture · Economy · Regional
12½ ounces fennel bulb, sliced paper-thin
12 to 14 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
½ cup finely chopped shallots
3 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
¾ cup dry white wine
1 cup chicken stock
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, optional

To Finish

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving
¼ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons chopped fennel fronds
Chopped fresh parsley, optional
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

Method

1. Blanch the fennel

Bring 6 quarts of generously salted water to a boil in a large pot.

Add the sliced fennel and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until it has begun to soften but still holds its shape.

Lift the fennel from the water with a slotted spoon or spider and allow it to drain thoroughly.

Don’t discard the water. Return it to a boil and use the same pot to cook the orecchiette. The water will carry a faint sweetness and aroma from the fennel into the pasta.

2. Brown the sausage

Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or wide sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Add the sausage and cook, breaking it into irregular bite-sized pieces rather than tiny crumbles.

Let it brown deeply before moving it too much. Those caramelized edges are essential to the flavor of the finished sauce.

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